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> San Jose Helpfull Tips
 Please
read all of the appliance maintenance tips below. All of
the simple tips are meant to prevent your appliances from
future failure. Appliance repairs can be costly and 99%
of the time the reason for that is improper usage or lack
of very basic maintenance. We strongly encourage that if
your appliance, air conditioning or heating unit don’t
function properly and requires repair, simply call one of
our service technicians who has the knowledge, experience
and right tools to fix it. San Jose Air conditioning / Heating
and Appliance repairs is available for all your needs at
our toll free number:
888-665-5148
Of course you can always email us at appointment@sanjoseappliancerepair.com
if that is better for you. Please submit your name, phone
number, address and a brief description of the problem.
We will be confirming your appliance repair appointment
within 60 minutes:
Most importantly, however, you can keep your appliances
running the way they should merely by following certain
simple preventive maintenance procedures regularly. Not
only will such maintenance help you derive the benefits
of maximum efficiency and performance, but it will also
result in a longer and more trouble-free life for your air
conditioner, dishwasher, trash compactor, disposer, washer,
dryer, water heater, range, and refrigerator.
AIR CONDITIONERS
maintenance tips
The air conditioner moves heat from one area to another
much like the cooling system in a frostless refrigerator.
Inside the unit there is a coil called the evaporator, and
it is the component that gets cold. A fan pulls heated air
from the room across the evaporator coil, and then pushes
the cooled air into the living area. Warm air is constantly
being pulled back through the air conditioner unit and across
the coil, creating a complete recirculating process. In
addition, the air conditioner helps to lower the humidity
level in your home, and thereby enhance the comfort of the
living area. The moisture in the heat-laden air tends to
collect upon the chilled coils of the evaporator, much as
condensation does on the outside of a glass of iced tea
during summertime.
What happens to the heat? It is carried by the refrigeration
system to an exterior coil called the condenser. The condenser,
which is hot to the touch, is exposed to the outside air.
The circulating outside air absorbs the heat, dispelling
it outside your home. Meanwhile, air is continually pulled
through louvers in the sides of the cabinet and pushed out
through the coils. This process eventually eliminates enough
of the hot air in your home to make it comfortable.
The same heat-removal principles apply as much to an automobile's
air conditioning system as they do to a centralized home
or window unit. In a car, the evaporator (which is located
behind the dash) removes the heat and transfers it to the
condenser (usually located in front of the car's ii radiator).
In a home central air conditioning system, the condenser
and compressor may be remote (located on the roof or as
a separate unit somewhere outside the house). The evaporator
of a central air conditioning system is placed within the
supply duct plenum of the furnace.
The compressor acts as a pump to circulate the refrigerant
through the system. Therefore, you can control the temperature
in your home with a thermostat which simply turns the compressor
on and off to maintain the degree of coolness you desire.
In most cases, the system's blowers continue to run even
when the compressor is off. Fan motors consume only a small
amount of electricity, and they help keep air circulating
within the room even when the cooling system itself is not
required. Without continual air
circulation, the cold air would collect near the floor,
a condition known as "stratification" which can
be quite uncomfortable.
All air conditioners require regular maintenance, consisting
primarily of the cleaning and replacing of filters at specified
intervals (once every 30 days is not too often). Dirty filters,
as you would expect, reduce the air flow and lower the efficiency
of the unit. In severe cases, filters that fail to do their
job can even damage the evaporator and the compressor. Therefore,
you must clean or change the filters regularly.
Filters made of foam or aluminum are washable, you can flush
these filters with a hose from the back side. Some air conditioner
manufacturers recommend that you then coat the clean filter
fibers with a special adhesive to trap particles as the
air passes through the filter. Fiberglass filters, however,
cannot be cleaned; you must replace fiberglass filters when
they become dirty.
If a filter has been clogged for a long period of time,
lint and dirt can work their way through to clog the evaporator
coil itself. You can remedy this situation by applying a
special cleaning solution or a strong liquid detergent to
the coil. Spread the solution on the coil and allow it to
soak for a few minutes. Then spray the coil with water,
and brush away the residue from the front. Continue to flush
the coil until it appears to be free from lint and dirt
once again.
The water you use to rinse the evaporator coil will flow
out the same drain line that carries off condensate water
when the air conditioner is operating. Such water usually
flows across the base pan to a sump located at the bottom
of the condenser fan blade. This fan blade has a special
ring around it (called a "slinger" ring) that
rises through the puddle at the bottom of the condenser.
The slinger ring helps eliminate dripping — except
in the most humid weather — and it also increases
the efficiency of the condenser.
CENTRAL HEATERS / FURNACE
maintenace tips
Forced warm-air heaters require a filter to clean the air
as it is being circulated. The filter is generally a pad
of loosely packed fiberglass which traps dust and keeps
it from being blown back into rooms. Permanent filters of
plastic or wire mesh are washable; the throwaway fiberglass
types must be replaced. Filters should be cleaned or replaced
monthly during the heating season. Do not put it off. A
dirty filter will block the air flow, decrease the efficiency
of the system, and can even cause extensive damage.
The only visible parts of most home heating units are the
registers (or radiators) which allow the heat to flow out
into a room. Registers may be used with either gravity or
forced warm-air systems. In the gravity type arrangements,
the register outlets are usually located low in the floor
or along the baseboard of a room. Gravity system outlets
are usually placed along the interior walls of a home, to
give better and more economical heating. Floor grills located
along outside walls are generally return vents for the cool
air being displaced.
Do not use an abrasive contact cleaner, since it can scratch
or otherwise damage the bimetallic points. If the thermostat
is a mercury vial-type, no cleaning is necessary. The mercury
unit is sealed during manufacture. If heat comes out of
the registers but the blowers do not operate, the trouble
is in the fan or fan motor, or there is a leak or blockage
in the duct work. In some combination cooling and heating
systems without a heat pump, there is a plate which may
be slid in or out of the duct nearest the cooler. It is
removed to allow cool air to flow through the ducts during
summer. In the winter, the plate is inserted in order to
keep cool air from leaking into the duct system as it is
being used by the heating blowers. Check your system to
see if it incorporates one of these plates and, if so, that
the plate is in the right position for the heater/cooler
in use.
WASHER maintenance tips
A home washing machine normally operates off a 110-volt
ac wall outlet. Ideally, the appliance outlet should be
on an individual 15-amp breaker or time-delay fuse at the
home's service entrance. The dryer requires a 240-volt outlet
and always must have its own circuit. Washers come with
a three-prong grounded plug. For safety, the cord should
always be plugged into a three-hole grounded wall socket.
If your home is equipped with the old-style two-wire outlets,
any hardware or variety store can supply you with a conversion
plug to adapt the washer cord to the two-wire outlet. The
conversion plug has three holes to accept the washer plug,
two prongs to slide into your two-hole outlet, and a short
ground wire with a spade lug attached to the end. This spade
lug must be slid under the metal screw holding the cover
plate over the wall plug in order to make a solid ground
connection. Never use a conversion plug without properly
attaching the spade lug grounding wire.
For added safety, many of today's washers are sold with
a separate external grounding kit. (The dryer plug and chassis
already has this built into it.) This is a heavy wire that
is connected from the metal chassis or frame of the washer
to a solid electrical ground spot in the home (such as a
metal clamp around a cold water pipe in the home plumbing
system).
It is essential that the new washer or dryer be perfectly
level so that it rests solidly on the floor. Set the appliance
down on a bare floor, not on carpet. They work best on a
concrete floor. Use a level, and adjust the appliance's
leveling guides (or screws) on all four corners. Generally,
you raise the corner height by turning the leveling screws
to the right, and lower each individual corner by turning
the leveling guides to the left.
After your level shows the machine is solidly in place (level
side to side as well as front to back), then check for vibration
as the washer spins. Turn the cycle selector to the spin
dry mark, plug the cord in, turn the machine on, and make
final adjustments in the leveling guides as necessary to
keep the washer from vibrating. Occasionally, it may be
necessary to place small wooden or metal shims under one
or more of the corners in order to give the unit a stable
footing.
After making the proper connections to the electrical outlet
and to the hot and cold water intakes and the outlet drain,
check the thermostat setting on your hot water heater. For
best efficiency, the hot water entering the washer should
be approximately 140 F. Adjust your hot water heater accordingly.
MOVING TIPS for your washer
Carefully take out any removable interior parts and pack
them in a separate box. Moving interior components that
cannot be easily removed should be securely fastened into
place, using heavy tape or wire.
If there were shipping bolts and spacers provided with the
original packing box, reinstall them. If the original packing
material has been lost or discarded, check with the nearest
local manufacturer's outlet to see if the service department
can provide you with the necessary packing materials and
information.
If you are storing your washer in an area of extreme cold
weather, you must remove all water from the machine in order
to protect it.
Disconnect all hoses from the input water supply. Put the
machine on spin dry, and turn the unit on. Let the machine
spin for a couple of minutes to let all of the water drain
out. Turn off the machine, close the lid, and pull the electrical
plug. Take the drain hose off of the pump outlet and drain
water from both the pump and hose. Reconnect the hose to
the pump outlet
For safety, always disconnect the electrical cord or turn
off the service entrance breaker or fuse before servicing
or even cleaning the appliance. There are many special manufacturer's
cleaners and enamel paints, which may be recommended in
the owner's manual for your particular appliance. Or check
with any hardware or variety store for general all-purpose
enamel cleaners. Never use gritty, harsh, or abrasive cleaners
on any surface of a modern washer or dryer. Do not use oxalic
acid or any commercial rust remover in the tub or near the
top of the washer.
At the end of each laundry day, clean top and both sides
of the lid by wiping with a damp cloth. Turn off both the
hot and cold water faucets in order to reduce the pressure
on the water hoses when not in use. The lint filter should
be cleaned at the end of every washing or drying cycle.
Consult the owner's manual for the proper method for cleaning
the lint filter on your machine.
As needed, thoroughly clean all enamel, porcelain, and painted
finishes with a soft, damp cloth. Commercial porcelain and
enamel renew spray finishes will work well. If the finish
of the cabinet is accidentally scratched or marred, use
a can of spray enamel for a color-matched touch-up.
AUTOMATIC DISHWASHERS
maintenance tips
The automatic dishwasher operates by forcing a high-velocity
stream of hot water, mixed with a detergent solution, against
dirty dishes. This jet action combined with the high water
temperature provides a cleaning action that both scrubs
the dishes and eliminates bacteria. The dishwasher then
drains the dirty water away, rinses the dishes with fresh
hot water, and dries the dishes with hot air.
Like most automatic appliances, the dishwasher is controlled
by a timer. The timer is a clock-
Actuated switch which actually contains a number of switching
contacts that can energize different cycles. The clock motor
begins to run as soon as you start the machine, and it continues
to run until the end of the wash cycle. At that point, a
contact opens and breaks the circuit to the timer motor.
Some dishwasher functions are controlled by small electromagnetic
devices called solenoids. Solenoids are coils of wire that
concentrate the magnetic force surrounding any wire which
has current flowing through it- When energized by the timer,
a solenoid attracts a pole or armature; this movement in
turn, carries out some mechanical work. In the dishwasher,
for example, a solenoid located in a water valve allows
water to flow into the machine; the solenoid opens the valve
in much the same way that you would open a faucet. When
the timer contacts to the solenoid circuit open, current
ceases to flow, and the solenoid then shuts the water off.
In most dishwashers, the precise volume of water necessary
for efficient operation is controlled by a small regulator
in the water valve known as a flow washer. This regulator
reduces flow within the line to approximately 20 pounds
per square inch,
Much lower than the pressure found in most c-7* water mains.
Since the flow washer- controls water pressure and the timer
controls the length time that the water inlet is open, dishwasher
can engineer machines that utilize a spec quantity of water
every time they are operated.
Dishwashers use only hot water. Ideally, water temperature
should be between 140 and 160 degrees for proper cleaning
of your dishes. If the temperature is less than 140 degrees,
the dishwashing detergent cannot dissolve properly and certain
greases cannot emulsify entirely. The result of course,
is poor cleaning performance. Consequently, the water temperature
is one of the firs: things that you should check if your
dishwasher ever fails to clean properly. You can use a candy
or a meat thermometer in the dishwasher to measure the water
temperature.
Always measure the water temperature during the second
wash cycle. If the water temperature in your dishwasher
is too low, then raise the thermostat setting on your water
heater. The dish, washer heating element cannot compensate
for are insufficiently heated water supply; the element's
main responsibility is to maintain the water temperature
during normal wash periods. If there were n-- heating element,
the spraying action of the way-=-- against the cool sides
of the cabinet could lower the water temperature substantially
during the course of a single wash period.
Most dishwashers have detergent dispensers that permit
the cleaning agent to enter the water at the proper time.
Since there are usually two wash cycles, each must have
its own charge o- detergent. Therefore, one side of the
filled dispense-is usually open, while the other is latched
shut. When- the dishwashing cycle begins, the hot water
flushes the detergent from the open container; after the
second wash cycle begins, a solenoid (or bimetal stir unlatches
the second compartment, allowing the second charge of detergent
to be discharged into the water.
After its wash cycle, the dishwasher goes through several
rinse periods to remove any remaining detergent or food
particles. In addition, some dishwashers provide two other
actions during the final rinse period: one is a sanitizing
treatment, and the other reduces spotting.
The sanitizing feature utilizes an electric heating element
to raise the water temperature to at least 150 degrees to
reduce the bacteria count. The sanitizing cycle turns the
timer motor off and allows the heating element to remain
on until a bimetal thermostat which senses the water temperature
— closes, turning the timer motor on again. Since
it takes about one minute to raise the dishwasher's water
temperature one degree, it could take around 30 minutes
to heat the water temperature up to the level required by
the sanitizing cycle, if your home's hot water temperature
is low (around 120 degrees, for instance). This is another
good reason to be sure back into position and press the
start switch. The ram will travel upward, at which point
you can open the container drawer and rearrange the trash.
Then, you can start the entire cycle all over again.
CLOTHES DRYERS maintenance
tips maintenance tips
One of the most important preventative maintenance tasks
you can do for your dryer is to clean the lint filter prior
to drying every load. If the filter becomes completely clogged,
some lint can escape and create jamming problems elsewhere
in the dryer. Even a partial blockage reduces the dryer's
efficiency and limits its capabilities. Most importantly,
though, a clogged dryer can be a fire hazard. Lint from
many fabrics particularly synthetics is highly combustible.
The vent is designed to carry heat and moisture away from
the dryer to the outside of the house. While the vent may
seem to waste a great deal of heat which could be put to
use, remember that the warm air is heavy with moisture after
it passes through the dryer. Were this air to be recalculated
through the dryer, the appliance's efficiency -would suffer
greatly, since the air simply could not hold much additional
moisture. Moreover, the same air is circulated through the
dryer motor to help cool it. The hotter the air is, the
hotter the motor will run.
Check to see what types of venting materials are allowed
in your community. Many hardware and building-supply stores
carry kits with which you can do a good job of venting the
dryer yourself. Keep the runs as short and with as few bends
as possible, and always place a vent cap on the outside
to prevent small animals from entering the duct.
Although it is very tempting to place large quantities of
clothing in the big drum, remember that the clothing needs
a great deal of space for tumbling. Never dry more than
a single washer load in a single dryer load, and never try
to bake your clothes completely dry. Most clothes should
be allowed to retain a slight amount of moisture.
Once a year unplug the dryer or turn off the gas supply,
remove the service panel, and vacuum away any lint or dust
in the vicinity of the motor. Regular cleaning keeps lint
away from the bearings and it helps maintain clean air passageways.
It also reduces the possibility of a fire.
ELECTRIC RANGES maintenance
tips
Most electric ranges employ a sheath-type enclosed micromere
heating element to provide a controlled amount of heat to
the cooking surface and to the oven cavity. The heating
elements on the top of the range are shaped to make the
maximum amount of contact with the bottom of your pots and
pans. It is quite important that your cooking utensils be
flat and in good condition, however. Otherwise, the pan
can produce "hot spots" in the element, and Hot
spots reduce the life of the element as well as yield poor
cooking results. The cook-top elements or surface units
as they are called can usually be removed easily. On many
newer ranges, in fact, the surface units simply plug into
a special receptacle at the rear, while on some other ranges;
the units are hinged to make their wiring accessible.
There are two types of surface units. One type of surface
unit contains two elements, an outer coil and an inner coil,
the outer coil is usually of a higher wattage than the inner
.coil. The unit has circuits. Generally, a separate fuse
(located beneath the elements) or a circuit breaker (on
the control panel) protects the outlet and light circuit.
If the outlet or light ever fails to operate, check the
condition of the fuse or the position of the circuit breaker.
If the entire range fails to operate or if it operates
only at a low temperature chances are that one or both of
the main fuses in your home's electrical circuit to the
range have blown. If they are cartridge-type fuses, you
must check them with a continuity tester or replace them
with new ones. If the range circuit is protected by a circuit
breaker, simply reset it to restore the range's power supply.
Of course, you should try to determine why the fuse blew
or the circuit breaker tripped.
Self-cleaning ranges burn away any food soils on the oven
surfaces by raising the temperature in the oven cavity to
800 or 900 degrees. Besides having special cabinets made
with high-density insulation, these ranges also are equipped
with special chrome plating on the racks and a special porcelain
coating on the inside of the oven cavity. During the high-heat
cleaning, the oven's elements are usually connected into
a 1 1 5-volt circuit to allow them to heat much more slowly
than they normally would slow heating permits proper decomposition
the food soils. A high-limit switch which may be part of
the oven thermostat controls the heat air the proper level
during the self-cleaning process.
If your self-cleaning oven fails to clear properly, check
to be sure that you are setting controls for the proper
length of time (usually three hours are required to burn
away normal oven grime You should, of course, wipe away
heavy spills below you initiate the cleaning cycle. If you
still have problem, call in a service technician who has
the special testing equipment required to examine your oven's
high-temperature operation
Other ranges possess a special coating on the oven liner
to help decompose food soils as regular cooking temperatures.
These continuous cleaning ovens use a catalyst in the liner
material that reacts with the soil. You must, however. Exercise
special care with continuous cleaning ovens. Never use commercial
cleaners on the finish nor attempt to scrub it with abrasive
cleaner. Wipe away heavy soils immediately, before have
a chance to smother the action of the catalytic coating,
and avoid damaging the finish in any way such damage would
leave an unprotected area in the oven liner.
GAS RANGES maintenance tips
All gas ovens should have safety devices shut off the gas
flow in case the pilot light goes off. An electrical switch,
or a sensing tube, attached the bellows that controls gas
flow within the supplied line can do the job. If you have
an older range that lacks such a safety feature, contact
your local gas company for installation information. This
is not a don’t do it -yourself project, however- only
an authorized technician should work with the fuel-related
components of a gas range.
Many gas ranges feature an electric timer, much like the
kind found on many electric ranges. The timer circuit is
connected into the circuit of the oven thermostat. When
the timer is in its off position, no power goes to the thermostat;
the thermostat, therefore, cannot open the valve to allow
gas to flow to the oven burner. As you can see, gas ranges
do require some electricity, but all you need do is plug,
the range into a standard 115-volt outlet. Since only the
oven valve, tinier, and light are electrically powered,
a gas range consumes very little current. Several manufacturers
make gas ranges that have a special coating on the inside
of the oven liner to provide continuous-cleaning action.
This coating
Contains a catalyst which reacts with food soils and causes
them to decompose at normal cooking temperatures. Continuous-cleaning
finishes require special consideration, and you must follow
the manufacturer's instructions when caring for such ovens.
For example, you must never use a commercial oven cleaner
on them.
Self-cleaning ovens in gas ranges operate exactly like
self-cleaning ovens in electric ranges. The only difference
is that the gas burner rather than and electric heating
element serves as the heat source. Gas ranges require little
in the way of service. Their electrical components timer,
thermostat, and valve are subject to failure, but they rarely
do fail. Just make sure that the timer is set to a manual
or to an operating position when you want to use the oven.
Gas burners require cleaning from time to time. Before you
perform any sort of service procedure, however, be sure
that you shut off the gas supply and unplug the range. You
can disassemble many burners, soak them in hot soapy water,
and then brush them with an old toothbrush to remove food
particles.
If you notice that a burner is starting to clog, you can
prevent the clog from worsening by cleaning the blocked
orifice with a wooden toothpick. Likewise, if you see that
the heat output from a particular burner is reduced below
its normal level use only a soft object (like a toothpick)
for cleaning.
Since metallic objects can enlarge the orifice openings,
they should not be used for cleaning. Should a pilot light
become clogged, it might be necessary to unscrew the orifice
tip itself and clean the orifice from the inside. The opening
in the orifice is generally too small to be cleaned from
the outside.
If a burner is hesitant when you turn on the gas supply,
check to be sure that the pilot flame is adjusted correctly
and that the connecting tubes from the pilot to burner are
in place. Again, turn off the gas supply and pull the plug
before you attempt any gas range repair.
If you smell a gas leak, be sure to call a technician immediately
to inspect the range, and do not use the range until it
has been examined thoroughly. Open the windows to provide
plenty of ventilation, and extinguish any open flames. Natural
gas itself has no odor, but the gas company adds an artificial
odor to help you detect leaks in gas lines. A leak indicates
a situation that is potentially very hazardous.
Should you ever smell raw gas in your home, call in professional
service personnel immediately?
REFRIGERATORS, FREEZERS,
AND AUTOMATIC ICE MAKERS maintenance tips
Many refrigerators have forced-air condensers; that means
they have a small fan to pull air across the warm condenser
coils. These condensers must be cleaned regularly, usually
every thirty days. Regular cleaning is essential to prevent
a lint buildup far back in the condenser coils where you
cannot reach it with a vacuum. If you can reach the coils,
vacuum them thoroughly with a soft brush attached to the
vacuum hose.
To reduce the energy consumption of your refrigerator,
position it as far away from any warm air ducts or the range
as possible. Test your refrigerator's temperature periodically,
Put a glass of water in the refrigerator compartment for
24 hours, and then insert a reasonably accurate thermometer
in the water. To check the freezer temperature, place the
thermometer between several packages of food that have been
in the freezer compartment for at least 24 hours. The ideal
refrigerator temperature is around 37 degrees, while the
temperature in the freezer section should be about zero.
A colder refrigerator or freezer does not preserve food
any longer, and it costs you more for its higher energy
consumption.
Be sure that your refrigerator or freezer is connected
to a separate 15-ampere circuit with a grounded outlet.
The appliance should have adequate air space above, behind,
and on the sides, and never add more warm food than can
fit into 10 percent of the unit's storage compartment. The
box must be sealed effectively to prevent the hot air outside
from entering and warming the closed compartment. Test the
seal by closing the refrigerator door on a dollar bill.
Next, pull the bill out. If there is no resistance as you
pull, the door needs adjusting. The most frequent cause
of too much hot air entering the refrigerator, however,
is not a failure in the door's sealing ability; it is in
the fact that the door is opened too frequently. Make sure
that your refrigerator door is opened only as often and
for as long as is absolutely necessary to take out or put
back the items you refrigerate.
If the compressor runs continuously or excessively, there
may be any of several possible problems. You may have the
thermostat set too high or the door may not be providing
the proper seal. The required repairs are obvious. Other
possible causes for the compressor functioning excessively
are not so simple to fix. For example, there may be a leak
in the system. The thermostat would continually tell the
compressor to function, but the unit would not get any cooler
because there would be no refrigerant to vaporize in the
evaporator coils. You would have to call in a repairman
to fix the leak and to recharge the refrigerant.
If, on the other hand, the compressor does not function
at all, check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers
before examining the components of the cooling system. Other
possible causes of compressor malfunctions are defective
thermostat, defective timer, defective relay, and defective
compressor.
If the refrigerator is excessively noisy, you should be
able to correct the problem easily. A refrigerator that
is not level will clatter; check it with a carpenter's level
and adjust the refrigerator's position if so indicated.
Of course, a compressor that is loose in its mountings will
rattle noisily; merely tighten the mountings to quiet the
unit.
Finally, the noise may be caused by the tubing of the cooling
system hitting against the cabinet of the refrigerator.
If this is the case, you should be able to adjust the tubing
to, prevent it from striking the cabinet.
An automatic ice maker is merely a mold to which a temperature-sensing
switch is attached. When the water in the mold reaches a
preset temperature (usually around 15 degrees), a motor
is energized and the ejection cycle is initiated. As the
ice leaves the mold, fresh water flows in to fill it again.
A switch senses when the storage bin is full, and it stops
the ice-making action at the appropriate time.
If your automatic ice maker suddenly stops working, look
for a blockage in the water-inlet valve strainer. To clean
these strainers, you must unplug the refrigerator and remove
the water line where it enters the valve (usually at the
bottom edge of the refrigerator). Then, remove the stainless
steel strainer and clean it thoroughly with an old toothbrush.
You can usually trace unpleasant tastes or odors in the
ice to uncovered foods in the refrigerator compartment.
The odors get picked up and circulated throughout the cabinet,
and the ice absorbs them readily. Brown paper bags used
for food storage are often responsible for the tastes or
odors since these bags have a high sulfur content.
Be sure to unplug your refrigerator before attempting to
service it, and take special care to avoid damaging any
of the refrigerant-carrying tubing. Few refrigerator problems
originate in the sealed system itself. When they do, call
in a refrigeration technician. The refrigerants are non-toxic
under normal conditions of slight concentration, but they
must be handled with care. If you suspect a leak in a refrigerator,
open several windows, provide plenty of ventilation, and
shut off any open flames (such as pilot lights).
TRASH COMPACTORS maintenance
tips
There are few service or maintenance procedures you can
perform on a compactor. Remove and clean the ram every month
to prevent odors from arising, and clean the container drawer
at regular intervals even though little garbage escapes
the disposable bags. If you find it necessary to remove
the drive mechanism for service, be sure to apply an extreme
high-pressure lubricant before putting the mechanism back
into operation. If you leave the drive mechanism alone,
however, its lubricant should last the lifetime of the appliance.
Exercise the utmost care when emptying the trash compactor's
disposable bags. Broken glass can puncture the plastic or
paper bag and inflict injury. The best and safest method
of handling compacted garbage is to place the bag into a
separate container before transporting it to the garbage
can. Try not to handle the trash bag directly
GARBAGE DISPOSERS maintenance
tips
Garbage disposers are relatively simple devices designed
to eliminate wet garbage down your kitchen sink drain. The
upper portion of the disposer bolts to the sink flange or
sink outlet in place of the normal outlet and water and
food matter pass into container located directly below the
outlet. At bottom of the garbage disposer container is flywheel
which is mounted directly to the motor' shaft.
When you turn on the disposer, the flywheel- spins at around
1725 rpm. The centrifugal force -- the spinning disk throws
the food against the side--z of the container with some
force. At the outer edges of the disk is a hardened steel
ring called shredder which contains several sets of cutting
edges. The food waste hits the shredder ring and
Ground into tiny pieces- Some flywheels have weights on
them to hammer away at stub foods others have a flat flywheel
which is design to direct the food to the cutting edges
of teeth shredder.
When the particles are ground small enough to pass through
the openings between the shredder and the flywheel, a stream
of cold water flushes these particles down into the drain
line. You should always have the cold water running when
you use your disposer; it will flush the garbage particles,
as fast as they are ground. You must use only use cold Water
when you operate your disposer. Hot water temporarily liquefies
grease which then solidifies further down the drain line.
A drain that is coated with grease collects other disposer
waste until you have clog of major proportions to try to
eliminate The cardinal rule for disposer operation is to
put in only the type of garbage capable of being ground
by the particular disposer model you own. The list of disposable
garbage items varies from one company to another, depending
on the design and construction of their disposers. Be sure
to check your instruction manual before you operate any
garbage disposer; familiarize yourself thoroughly with the
things that your disposer can and cannot accept. Some of
the things that are definitely taboo are metal objects (such
as bottle tops, spoons, forks, etc.), glass, paper, plastic,
and rubber. Not only are these likely to jam the disposer,
but they can also clog the drain line. Most disposers can
grind bones; in fact, bones are good for your disposer because
they help clean away detergent film as well as the citric
acid deposits left after you grind fruit peelings.
No matter how well you care for it, though, sooner or later
your disposer will become jammed with a foreign object.
Before you take any corrective action whatsoever, be sure
to unplug the disposer. Try to remove the object directly
if you can. Some disposers have a wrench which you can insert
through the bottom of the housing to turn the flywheel.
Turn the power off, insert the wrench, and rock it to both
sides until you free the jam.
If your disposer did not come with such a wrench, you can
insert a wooden stick a broom handle works well through
the mouth of the disposer. Use the stick to pry against
the jam in both
Directions and you are almost sure to dislodge the intruder.
Remove the foreign object from the hopper before you turn
the disposer on again. A pair of ice tongs is handy for
such tasks. Never under any circumstances put your hand
into the mouth of any disposer. Obey this rule no matter
what type of machine you own. Be sure to use plenty of cold
water when you run your disposer, and follow the manufacturer's
instructions for getting rid of odors. Usually, grinding
a hopper full of ice cubes, followed by a whole lemon, is
quite effective in deodorizing your disposers.
If you need immediate help for any of your Air conditioning
, Heating or Appliance needs we are available at:
888-665-5148
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