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San Jose Appliance RepairPlease read all of the appliance maintenance tips below. All of the simple tips are meant to prevent your appliances from future failure. Appliance repairs can be costly and 99% of the time the reason for that is improper usage or lack of very basic maintenance. We strongly encourage that if your appliance, air conditioning or heating unit don’t function properly and requires repair, simply call one of our service technicians who has the knowledge, experience and right tools to fix it. San Jose Air conditioning / Heating and Appliance repairs is available for all your needs at our toll free number:


Of course you can always email us at appointment@sanjoseappliancerepair.com if that is better for you. Please submit your name, phone number, address and a brief description of the problem. We will be confirming your appliance repair appointment within 60 minutes:

Most importantly, however, you can keep your appliances running the way they should merely by following certain simple preventive maintenance procedures regularly. Not only will such maintenance help you derive the benefits of maximum efficiency and performance, but it will also result in a longer and more trouble-free life for your air conditioner, dishwasher, trash compactor, disposer, washer, dryer, water heater, range, and refrigerator.

AIR CONDITIONERS maintenance tips

The air conditioner moves heat from one area to another much like the cooling system in a frostless refrigerator. Inside the unit there is a coil called the evaporator, and it is the component that gets cold. A fan pulls heated air from the room across the evaporator coil, and then pushes the cooled air into the living area. Warm air is constantly being pulled back through the air conditioner unit and across the coil, creating a complete recirculating process. In addition, the air conditioner helps to lower the humidity level in your home, and thereby enhance the comfort of the living area. The moisture in the heat-laden air tends to collect upon the chilled coils of the evaporator, much as condensation does on the outside of a glass of iced tea during summertime.

What happens to the heat? It is carried by the refrigeration system to an exterior coil called the condenser. The condenser, which is hot to the touch, is exposed to the outside air. The circulating outside air absorbs the heat, dispelling it outside your home. Meanwhile, air is continually pulled through louvers in the sides of the cabinet and pushed out through the coils. This process eventually eliminates enough of the hot air in your home to make it comfortable.

The same heat-removal principles apply as much to an automobile's air conditioning system as they do to a centralized home or window unit. In a car, the evaporator (which is located behind the dash) removes the heat and transfers it to the condenser (usually located in front of the car's ii radiator). In a home central air conditioning system, the condenser and compressor may be remote (located on the roof or as a separate unit somewhere outside the house). The evaporator of a central air conditioning system is placed within the supply duct plenum of the furnace.

The compressor acts as a pump to circulate the refrigerant through the system. Therefore, you can control the temperature in your home with a thermostat which simply turns the compressor on and off to maintain the degree of coolness you desire. In most cases, the system's blowers continue to run even when the compressor is off. Fan motors consume only a small amount of electricity, and they help keep air circulating within the room even when the cooling system itself is not required. Without continual air
circulation, the cold air would collect near the floor, a condition known as "stratification" which can be quite uncomfortable.

All air conditioners require regular maintenance, consisting primarily of the cleaning and replacing of filters at specified intervals (once every 30 days is not too often). Dirty filters, as you would expect, reduce the air flow and lower the efficiency of the unit. In severe cases, filters that fail to do their job can even damage the evaporator and the compressor. Therefore, you must clean or change the filters regularly.
Filters made of foam or aluminum are washable, you can flush these filters with a hose from the back side. Some air conditioner manufacturers recommend that you then coat the clean filter fibers with a special adhesive to trap particles as the air passes through the filter. Fiberglass filters, however, cannot be cleaned; you must replace fiberglass filters when they become dirty.

If a filter has been clogged for a long period of time, lint and dirt can work their way through to clog the evaporator coil itself. You can remedy this situation by applying a special cleaning solution or a strong liquid detergent to the coil. Spread the solution on the coil and allow it to soak for a few minutes. Then spray the coil with water, and brush away the residue from the front. Continue to flush the coil until it appears to be free from lint and dirt once again.

The water you use to rinse the evaporator coil will flow out the same drain line that carries off condensate water when the air conditioner is operating. Such water usually flows across the base pan to a sump located at the bottom of the condenser fan blade. This fan blade has a special ring around it (called a "slinger" ring) that rises through the puddle at the bottom of the condenser. The slinger ring helps eliminate dripping — except in the most humid weather — and it also increases the efficiency of the condenser.


Forced warm-air heaters require a filter to clean the air as it is being circulated. The filter is generally a pad of loosely packed fiberglass which traps dust and keeps it from being blown back into rooms. Permanent filters of plastic or wire mesh are washable; the throwaway fiberglass types must be replaced. Filters should be cleaned or replaced monthly during the heating season. Do not put it off. A dirty filter will block the air flow, decrease the efficiency of the system, and can even cause extensive damage.
The only visible parts of most home heating units are the registers (or radiators) which allow the heat to flow out into a room. Registers may be used with either gravity or forced warm-air systems. In the gravity type arrangements, the register outlets are usually located low in the floor or along the baseboard of a room. Gravity system outlets are usually placed along the interior walls of a home, to give better and more economical heating. Floor grills located along outside walls are generally return vents for the cool air being displaced.

Do not use an abrasive contact cleaner, since it can scratch or otherwise damage the bimetallic points. If the thermostat is a mercury vial-type, no cleaning is necessary. The mercury unit is sealed during manufacture. If heat comes out of the registers but the blowers do not operate, the trouble is in the fan or fan motor, or there is a leak or blockage in the duct work. In some combination cooling and heating systems without a heat pump, there is a plate which may be slid in or out of the duct nearest the cooler. It is removed to allow cool air to flow through the ducts during summer. In the winter, the plate is inserted in order to keep cool air from leaking into the duct system as it is being used by the heating blowers. Check your system to see if it incorporates one of these plates and, if so, that the plate is in the right position for the heater/cooler in use.

WASHER maintenance tips

A home washing machine normally operates off a 110-volt ac wall outlet. Ideally, the appliance outlet should be on an individual 15-amp breaker or time-delay fuse at the home's service entrance. The dryer requires a 240-volt outlet and always must have its own circuit. Washers come with a three-prong grounded plug. For safety, the cord should always be plugged into a three-hole grounded wall socket. If your home is equipped with the old-style two-wire outlets, any hardware or variety store can supply you with a conversion plug to adapt the washer cord to the two-wire outlet. The conversion plug has three holes to accept the washer plug, two prongs to slide into your two-hole outlet, and a short ground wire with a spade lug attached to the end. This spade lug must be slid under the metal screw holding the cover plate over the wall plug in order to make a solid ground connection. Never use a conversion plug without properly attaching the spade lug grounding wire.

For added safety, many of today's washers are sold with a separate external grounding kit. (The dryer plug and chassis already has this built into it.) This is a heavy wire that is connected from the metal chassis or frame of the washer to a solid electrical ground spot in the home (such as a metal clamp around a cold water pipe in the home plumbing system).
It is essential that the new washer or dryer be perfectly level so that it rests solidly on the floor. Set the appliance down on a bare floor, not on carpet. They work best on a concrete floor. Use a level, and adjust the appliance's leveling guides (or screws) on all four corners. Generally, you raise the corner height by turning the leveling screws to the right, and lower each individual corner by turning the leveling guides to the left.

After your level shows the machine is solidly in place (level side to side as well as front to back), then check for vibration as the washer spins. Turn the cycle selector to the spin dry mark, plug the cord in, turn the machine on, and make final adjustments in the leveling guides as necessary to keep the washer from vibrating. Occasionally, it may be necessary to place small wooden or metal shims under one or more of the corners in order to give the unit a stable footing.
After making the proper connections to the electrical outlet and to the hot and cold water intakes and the outlet drain, check the thermostat setting on your hot water heater. For best efficiency, the hot water entering the washer should be approximately 140 F. Adjust your hot water heater accordingly.

MOVING TIPS for your washer

Carefully take out any removable interior parts and pack them in a separate box. Moving interior components that cannot be easily removed should be securely fastened into place, using heavy tape or wire.

If there were shipping bolts and spacers provided with the original packing box, reinstall them. If the original packing material has been lost or discarded, check with the nearest local manufacturer's outlet to see if the service department can provide you with the necessary packing materials and information.
If you are storing your washer in an area of extreme cold weather, you must remove all water from the machine in order to protect it.
Disconnect all hoses from the input water supply. Put the machine on spin dry, and turn the unit on. Let the machine spin for a couple of minutes to let all of the water drain out. Turn off the machine, close the lid, and pull the electrical plug. Take the drain hose off of the pump outlet and drain water from both the pump and hose. Reconnect the hose to the pump outlet
For safety, always disconnect the electrical cord or turn off the service entrance breaker or fuse before servicing or even cleaning the appliance. There are many special manufacturer's cleaners and enamel paints, which may be recommended in the owner's manual for your particular appliance. Or check with any hardware or variety store for general all-purpose enamel cleaners. Never use gritty, harsh, or abrasive cleaners on any surface of a modern washer or dryer. Do not use oxalic acid or any commercial rust remover in the tub or near the top of the washer.

At the end of each laundry day, clean top and both sides of the lid by wiping with a damp cloth. Turn off both the hot and cold water faucets in order to reduce the pressure on the water hoses when not in use. The lint filter should be cleaned at the end of every washing or drying cycle. Consult the owner's manual for the proper method for cleaning the lint filter on your machine.

As needed, thoroughly clean all enamel, porcelain, and painted finishes with a soft, damp cloth. Commercial porcelain and enamel renew spray finishes will work well. If the finish of the cabinet is accidentally scratched or marred, use a can of spray enamel for a color-matched touch-up.


The automatic dishwasher operates by forcing a high-velocity stream of hot water, mixed with a detergent solution, against dirty dishes. This jet action combined with the high water temperature provides a cleaning action that both scrubs the dishes and eliminates bacteria. The dishwasher then drains the dirty water away, rinses the dishes with fresh hot water, and dries the dishes with hot air.
Like most automatic appliances, the dishwasher is controlled by a timer. The timer is a clock-
Actuated switch which actually contains a number of switching contacts that can energize different cycles. The clock motor begins to run as soon as you start the machine, and it continues to run until the end of the wash cycle. At that point, a contact opens and breaks the circuit to the timer motor.
Some dishwasher functions are controlled by small electromagnetic devices called solenoids. Solenoids are coils of wire that concentrate the magnetic force surrounding any wire which has current flowing through it- When energized by the timer, a solenoid attracts a pole or armature; this movement in turn, carries out some mechanical work. In the dishwasher, for example, a solenoid located in a water valve allows water to flow into the machine; the solenoid opens the valve in much the same way that you would open a faucet. When the timer contacts to the solenoid circuit open, current ceases to flow, and the solenoid then shuts the water off.
In most dishwashers, the precise volume of water necessary for efficient operation is controlled by a small regulator in the water valve known as a flow washer. This regulator reduces flow within the line to approximately 20 pounds per square inch,

Much lower than the pressure found in most c-7* water mains. Since the flow washer- controls water pressure and the timer controls the length time that the water inlet is open, dishwasher can engineer machines that utilize a spec quantity of water every time they are operated.

Dishwashers use only hot water. Ideally, water temperature should be between 140 and 160 degrees for proper cleaning of your dishes. If the temperature is less than 140 degrees, the dishwashing detergent cannot dissolve properly and certain greases cannot emulsify entirely. The result of course, is poor cleaning performance. Consequently, the water temperature is one of the firs: things that you should check if your dishwasher ever fails to clean properly. You can use a candy or a meat thermometer in the dishwasher to measure the water temperature.

Always measure the water temperature during the second wash cycle. If the water temperature in your dishwasher is too low, then raise the thermostat setting on your water heater. The dish, washer heating element cannot compensate for are insufficiently heated water supply; the element's main responsibility is to maintain the water temperature during normal wash periods. If there were n-- heating element, the spraying action of the way-=-- against the cool sides of the cabinet could lower the water temperature substantially during the course of a single wash period.

Most dishwashers have detergent dispensers that permit the cleaning agent to enter the water at the proper time. Since there are usually two wash cycles, each must have its own charge o- detergent. Therefore, one side of the filled dispense-is usually open, while the other is latched shut. When- the dishwashing cycle begins, the hot water flushes the detergent from the open container; after the second wash cycle begins, a solenoid (or bimetal stir unlatches the second compartment, allowing the second charge of detergent to be discharged into the water.

After its wash cycle, the dishwasher goes through several rinse periods to remove any remaining detergent or food particles. In addition, some dishwashers provide two other actions during the final rinse period: one is a sanitizing treatment, and the other reduces spotting.

The sanitizing feature utilizes an electric heating element to raise the water temperature to at least 150 degrees to reduce the bacteria count. The sanitizing cycle turns the timer motor off and allows the heating element to remain on until a bimetal thermostat which senses the water temperature — closes, turning the timer motor on again. Since it takes about one minute to raise the dishwasher's water temperature one degree, it could take around 30 minutes to heat the water temperature up to the level required by the sanitizing cycle, if your home's hot water temperature is low (around 120 degrees, for instance). This is another good reason to be sure back into position and press the start switch. The ram will travel upward, at which point you can open the container drawer and rearrange the trash. Then, you can start the entire cycle all over again.

CLOTHES DRYERS maintenance tips maintenance tips

One of the most important preventative maintenance tasks you can do for your dryer is to clean the lint filter prior to drying every load. If the filter becomes completely clogged, some lint can escape and create jamming problems elsewhere in the dryer. Even a partial blockage reduces the dryer's efficiency and limits its capabilities. Most importantly, though, a clogged dryer can be a fire hazard. Lint from many fabrics particularly synthetics is highly combustible.

The vent is designed to carry heat and moisture away from the dryer to the outside of the house. While the vent may seem to waste a great deal of heat which could be put to use, remember that the warm air is heavy with moisture after it passes through the dryer. Were this air to be recalculated through the dryer, the appliance's efficiency -would suffer greatly, since the air simply could not hold much additional moisture. Moreover, the same air is circulated through the dryer motor to help cool it. The hotter the air is, the hotter the motor will run.

Check to see what types of venting materials are allowed in your community. Many hardware and building-supply stores carry kits with which you can do a good job of venting the dryer yourself. Keep the runs as short and with as few bends as possible, and always place a vent cap on the outside to prevent small animals from entering the duct.
Although it is very tempting to place large quantities of clothing in the big drum, remember that the clothing needs a great deal of space for tumbling. Never dry more than a single washer load in a single dryer load, and never try to bake your clothes completely dry. Most clothes should be allowed to retain a slight amount of moisture.

Once a year unplug the dryer or turn off the gas supply, remove the service panel, and vacuum away any lint or dust in the vicinity of the motor. Regular cleaning keeps lint away from the bearings and it helps maintain clean air passageways. It also reduces the possibility of a fire.

ELECTRIC RANGES maintenance tips

Most electric ranges employ a sheath-type enclosed micromere heating element to provide a controlled amount of heat to the cooking surface and to the oven cavity. The heating elements on the top of the range are shaped to make the maximum amount of contact with the bottom of your pots and pans. It is quite important that your cooking utensils be flat and in good condition, however. Otherwise, the pan can produce "hot spots" in the element, and Hot spots reduce the life of the element as well as yield poor cooking results. The cook-top elements or surface units as they are called can usually be removed easily. On many newer ranges, in fact, the surface units simply plug into a special receptacle at the rear, while on some other ranges; the units are hinged to make their wiring accessible.

There are two types of surface units. One type of surface unit contains two elements, an outer coil and an inner coil, the outer coil is usually of a higher wattage than the inner .coil. The unit has circuits. Generally, a separate fuse (located beneath the elements) or a circuit breaker (on the control panel) protects the outlet and light circuit. If the outlet or light ever fails to operate, check the condition of the fuse or the position of the circuit breaker.

If the entire range fails to operate or if it operates only at a low temperature chances are that one or both of the main fuses in your home's electrical circuit to the range have blown. If they are cartridge-type fuses, you must check them with a continuity tester or replace them with new ones. If the range circuit is protected by a circuit breaker, simply reset it to restore the range's power supply. Of course, you should try to determine why the fuse blew or the circuit breaker tripped.

Self-cleaning ranges burn away any food soils on the oven surfaces by raising the temperature in the oven cavity to 800 or 900 degrees. Besides having special cabinets made with high-density insulation, these ranges also are equipped with special chrome plating on the racks and a special porcelain coating on the inside of the oven cavity. During the high-heat cleaning, the oven's elements are usually connected into a 1 1 5-volt circuit to allow them to heat much more slowly than they normally would slow heating permits proper decomposition the food soils. A high-limit switch which may be part of the oven thermostat controls the heat air the proper level during the self-cleaning process.

If your self-cleaning oven fails to clear properly, check to be sure that you are setting controls for the proper length of time (usually three hours are required to burn away normal oven grime You should, of course, wipe away heavy spills below you initiate the cleaning cycle. If you still have problem, call in a service technician who has the special testing equipment required to examine your oven's high-temperature operation

Other ranges possess a special coating on the oven liner to help decompose food soils as regular cooking temperatures. These continuous cleaning ovens use a catalyst in the liner material that reacts with the soil. You must, however. Exercise special care with continuous cleaning ovens. Never use commercial cleaners on the finish nor attempt to scrub it with abrasive cleaner. Wipe away heavy soils immediately, before have a chance to smother the action of the catalytic coating, and avoid damaging the finish in any way such damage would leave an unprotected area in the oven liner.

GAS RANGES maintenance tips

All gas ovens should have safety devices shut off the gas flow in case the pilot light goes off. An electrical switch, or a sensing tube, attached the bellows that controls gas flow within the supplied line can do the job. If you have an older range that lacks such a safety feature, contact your local gas company for installation information. This is not a don’t do it -yourself project, however- only an authorized technician should work with the fuel-related components of a gas range.

Many gas ranges feature an electric timer, much like the kind found on many electric ranges. The timer circuit is connected into the circuit of the oven thermostat. When the timer is in its off position, no power goes to the thermostat; the thermostat, therefore, cannot open the valve to allow gas to flow to the oven burner. As you can see, gas ranges do require some electricity, but all you need do is plug, the range into a standard 115-volt outlet. Since only the oven valve, tinier, and light are electrically powered, a gas range consumes very little current. Several manufacturers make gas ranges that have a special coating on the inside of the oven liner to provide continuous-cleaning action. This coating
Contains a catalyst which reacts with food soils and causes them to decompose at normal cooking temperatures. Continuous-cleaning finishes require special consideration, and you must follow the manufacturer's instructions when caring for such ovens. For example, you must never use a commercial oven cleaner on them.

Self-cleaning ovens in gas ranges operate exactly like self-cleaning ovens in electric ranges. The only difference is that the gas burner rather than and electric heating element serves as the heat source. Gas ranges require little in the way of service. Their electrical components timer, thermostat, and valve are subject to failure, but they rarely do fail. Just make sure that the timer is set to a manual or to an operating position when you want to use the oven. Gas burners require cleaning from time to time. Before you perform any sort of service procedure, however, be sure that you shut off the gas supply and unplug the range. You can disassemble many burners, soak them in hot soapy water, and then brush them with an old toothbrush to remove food particles.

If you notice that a burner is starting to clog, you can prevent the clog from worsening by cleaning the blocked orifice with a wooden toothpick. Likewise, if you see that the heat output from a particular burner is reduced below its normal level use only a soft object (like a toothpick) for cleaning.

Since metallic objects can enlarge the orifice openings, they should not be used for cleaning. Should a pilot light become clogged, it might be necessary to unscrew the orifice tip itself and clean the orifice from the inside. The opening in the orifice is generally too small to be cleaned from the outside.

If a burner is hesitant when you turn on the gas supply, check to be sure that the pilot flame is adjusted correctly and that the connecting tubes from the pilot to burner are in place. Again, turn off the gas supply and pull the plug before you attempt any gas range repair.

If you smell a gas leak, be sure to call a technician immediately to inspect the range, and do not use the range until it has been examined thoroughly. Open the windows to provide plenty of ventilation, and extinguish any open flames. Natural gas itself has no odor, but the gas company adds an artificial odor to help you detect leaks in gas lines. A leak indicates a situation that is potentially very hazardous.

Should you ever smell raw gas in your home, call in professional service personnel immediately?


Many refrigerators have forced-air condensers; that means they have a small fan to pull air across the warm condenser coils. These condensers must be cleaned regularly, usually every thirty days. Regular cleaning is essential to prevent a lint buildup far back in the condenser coils where you cannot reach it with a vacuum. If you can reach the coils, vacuum them thoroughly with a soft brush attached to the vacuum hose.

To reduce the energy consumption of your refrigerator, position it as far away from any warm air ducts or the range as possible. Test your refrigerator's temperature periodically, Put a glass of water in the refrigerator compartment for 24 hours, and then insert a reasonably accurate thermometer in the water. To check the freezer temperature, place the thermometer between several packages of food that have been in the freezer compartment for at least 24 hours. The ideal refrigerator temperature is around 37 degrees, while the temperature in the freezer section should be about zero. A colder refrigerator or freezer does not preserve food any longer, and it costs you more for its higher energy consumption.

Be sure that your refrigerator or freezer is connected to a separate 15-ampere circuit with a grounded outlet. The appliance should have adequate air space above, behind, and on the sides, and never add more warm food than can fit into 10 percent of the unit's storage compartment. The box must be sealed effectively to prevent the hot air outside from entering and warming the closed compartment. Test the seal by closing the refrigerator door on a dollar bill. Next, pull the bill out. If there is no resistance as you pull, the door needs adjusting. The most frequent cause of too much hot air entering the refrigerator, however, is not a failure in the door's sealing ability; it is in the fact that the door is opened too frequently. Make sure that your refrigerator door is opened only as often and for as long as is absolutely necessary to take out or put back the items you refrigerate.

If the compressor runs continuously or excessively, there may be any of several possible problems. You may have the thermostat set too high or the door may not be providing the proper seal. The required repairs are obvious. Other possible causes for the compressor functioning excessively are not so simple to fix. For example, there may be a leak in the system. The thermostat would continually tell the compressor to function, but the unit would not get any cooler because there would be no refrigerant to vaporize in the evaporator coils. You would have to call in a repairman to fix the leak and to recharge the refrigerant.

If, on the other hand, the compressor does not function at all, check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers before examining the components of the cooling system. Other possible causes of compressor malfunctions are defective thermostat, defective timer, defective relay, and defective compressor.

If the refrigerator is excessively noisy, you should be able to correct the problem easily. A refrigerator that is not level will clatter; check it with a carpenter's level and adjust the refrigerator's position if so indicated. Of course, a compressor that is loose in its mountings will rattle noisily; merely tighten the mountings to quiet the unit.

Finally, the noise may be caused by the tubing of the cooling system hitting against the cabinet of the refrigerator. If this is the case, you should be able to adjust the tubing to, prevent it from striking the cabinet.

An automatic ice maker is merely a mold to which a temperature-sensing switch is attached. When the water in the mold reaches a preset temperature (usually around 15 degrees), a motor is energized and the ejection cycle is initiated. As the ice leaves the mold, fresh water flows in to fill it again. A switch senses when the storage bin is full, and it stops the ice-making action at the appropriate time.

If your automatic ice maker suddenly stops working, look for a blockage in the water-inlet valve strainer. To clean these strainers, you must unplug the refrigerator and remove the water line where it enters the valve (usually at the bottom edge of the refrigerator). Then, remove the stainless steel strainer and clean it thoroughly with an old toothbrush.
You can usually trace unpleasant tastes or odors in the ice to uncovered foods in the refrigerator compartment. The odors get picked up and circulated throughout the cabinet, and the ice absorbs them readily. Brown paper bags used for food storage are often responsible for the tastes or odors since these bags have a high sulfur content.

Be sure to unplug your refrigerator before attempting to service it, and take special care to avoid damaging any of the refrigerant-carrying tubing. Few refrigerator problems originate in the sealed system itself. When they do, call in a refrigeration technician. The refrigerants are non-toxic under normal conditions of slight concentration, but they must be handled with care. If you suspect a leak in a refrigerator, open several windows, provide plenty of ventilation, and shut off any open flames (such as pilot lights).

TRASH COMPACTORS maintenance tips

There are few service or maintenance procedures you can perform on a compactor. Remove and clean the ram every month to prevent odors from arising, and clean the container drawer at regular intervals even though little garbage escapes the disposable bags. If you find it necessary to remove the drive mechanism for service, be sure to apply an extreme high-pressure lubricant before putting the mechanism back into operation. If you leave the drive mechanism alone, however, its lubricant should last the lifetime of the appliance.

Exercise the utmost care when emptying the trash compactor's disposable bags. Broken glass can puncture the plastic or paper bag and inflict injury. The best and safest method of handling compacted garbage is to place the bag into a separate container before transporting it to the garbage can. Try not to handle the trash bag directly

GARBAGE DISPOSERS maintenance tips

Garbage disposers are relatively simple devices designed to eliminate wet garbage down your kitchen sink drain. The upper portion of the disposer bolts to the sink flange or sink outlet in place of the normal outlet and water and food matter pass into container located directly below the outlet. At bottom of the garbage disposer container is flywheel which is mounted directly to the motor' shaft.

When you turn on the disposer, the flywheel- spins at around 1725 rpm. The centrifugal force -- the spinning disk throws the food against the side--z of the container with some force. At the outer edges of the disk is a hardened steel ring called shredder which contains several sets of cutting edges. The food waste hits the shredder ring and
Ground into tiny pieces- Some flywheels have weights on them to hammer away at stub foods others have a flat flywheel which is design to direct the food to the cutting edges of teeth shredder.

When the particles are ground small enough to pass through the openings between the shredder and the flywheel, a stream of cold water flushes these particles down into the drain line. You should always have the cold water running when you use your disposer; it will flush the garbage particles, as fast as they are ground. You must use only use cold Water when you operate your disposer. Hot water temporarily liquefies grease which then solidifies further down the drain line. A drain that is coated with grease collects other disposer waste until you have clog of major proportions to try to eliminate The cardinal rule for disposer operation is to put in only the type of garbage capable of being ground by the particular disposer model you own. The list of disposable garbage items varies from one company to another, depending on the design and construction of their disposers. Be sure to check your instruction manual before you operate any garbage disposer; familiarize yourself thoroughly with the things that your disposer can and cannot accept. Some of the things that are definitely taboo are metal objects (such as bottle tops, spoons, forks, etc.), glass, paper, plastic, and rubber. Not only are these likely to jam the disposer, but they can also clog the drain line. Most disposers can grind bones; in fact, bones are good for your disposer because they help clean away detergent film as well as the citric acid deposits left after you grind fruit peelings.

No matter how well you care for it, though, sooner or later your disposer will become jammed with a foreign object. Before you take any corrective action whatsoever, be sure to unplug the disposer. Try to remove the object directly if you can. Some disposers have a wrench which you can insert through the bottom of the housing to turn the flywheel. Turn the power off, insert the wrench, and rock it to both sides until you free the jam.
If your disposer did not come with such a wrench, you can insert a wooden stick a broom handle works well through the mouth of the disposer. Use the stick to pry against the jam in both

Directions and you are almost sure to dislodge the intruder. Remove the foreign object from the hopper before you turn the disposer on again. A pair of ice tongs is handy for such tasks. Never under any circumstances put your hand into the mouth of any disposer. Obey this rule no matter what type of machine you own. Be sure to use plenty of cold water when you run your disposer, and follow the manufacturer's instructions for getting rid of odors. Usually, grinding a hopper full of ice cubes, followed by a whole lemon, is quite effective in deodorizing your disposers.

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